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Groundhog Removal
Groundhogs Under Buildings
When a groundhog is under a building, the primary goal is to get the animal out from under the building and seal up the entrance so that it can not return. Random bait trapping, in the back yard does not guarantee that the burrow has been cleared out.
Normally, I prefer, if possible, to mount the trap over the entrance to the burrow. It saves me a lot of wasted trips to clients homes. If the animal wants to come or go from its burrow it has to come through my trap. This eliminates, bait rejection problems and is much more likely to catch the target animal. Unfortunately, this really requires a special double door trap and, depending on the situation, maybe a “nose cone” adapter that is used to mount the trap to the burrow or building. Proper set up is critical in this type of set up. The animal will not want to go through the trap, so you have to make it feel as though it really does not have another option. The animal has to be able to look through the trap and feel like it can walk through the trap and come out the other side. Seeing bars on the far end of the trap makes it a lot more likely that the animal will dig around the trap (easy for a groundhog).
Our region has tons of groundhogs. This is due to the ecology of our region. We have heavy clay soils that are excellent for tunneling. I know this first hand. I grew up between Bristol and Abingdon and we had tons of ground hogs there. Other regions that are closer to the coast and have sandy soils do not have the same issues with ground hogs. Tunnels in sandy soils tend to collapse.
Because of our excellent groundhog habitat, we have lots of people with groundhog issues who decide that trapping or shooting the groundhog themselves is the best technique for dealing with their problem. Trapping groundhogs may seem simple in the beginning; but is not necessarily so. Here are a few things to consider before you begin:
1) What are you going to do with the trapped groundhog? It is illegal to have wildlife in your possession which you technically do while you are driving to your release site. Check the TWRA site for details https://www.tn.gov/twra/law-enforcement/permits#captive
2) There are gun laws in many localities now and it may be illegal to shoot the animal.
3) Groundhogs that are released are at a severe disadvantage and may not survive.
4) You are likely trapping a part of what is actually a continuous supply of groundhogs
5) You may catch something that you don’t want…like a skunk or opossum.
6) Your property is made of grass and other tasty items that groundhogs love. What is out there may be more savory than what is in your trap.
Cheap Traps
Frustration with ground hog trapping can be severe. I remember showing up at customer’s home that was between Bristol and Johnson City to find bullet holes in outbuildings and bent doors on cheap traps with the groundhog in question still running around in the back yard. Groundhogs are tough customers and cheap box traps that are for sale at some local stores sometimes do not handle the abuse a groundhog deals out. Once trapped, the groundhogs will ram themselves into the door at the end of the trap when they are agitated. They will do this while you are holding the trap and the trap will lurch and jump in your hands. Depending on the quality of the trap, they could pop out. Often cheap traps have doors made out of cheap stamped sheet metal. I have seen customers who have tried these traps tell me that they found the trap shut but that nothing was inside. When this happens, the door on these traps usually looks buckled; and I suspect that the groundhog battered his way out. Professional grade traps are made to stand up to this abuse and cost about four times as much as low grade trap.
Wandering Groundhogs
Another trapping problem comes with groundhog’s semi-nomadic habits. Groundhogs often have several burrow complexes to choose from and these holes are many times not even be within sight of one another. Furthermore, each complex will have one, two, three, or even more burrow entrances that are linked underground. Sometimes it is hard to spot all the entrances because they may be hidden under rubbish, in a fence line, etc. The groundhog may not even be onsite when the trap is set. This makes it hard to know if the groundhog is rejecting the bait or if it is just not in its burrow.
Conversely, other groundhogs on neighboring properties may come to take up residence in the newly vacated hole once you clear out the current resident. These underground burrowers have a surprisingly good awareness of other holes in the area.
One Way Door Ground Hog Removal – The Most Humane Option
“One Way Doors” are just what the name implies. They are small doors that only swing in one direction. If used correctly, they allow animals to leave but not to reenter a structure. They are a relatively new type of device that has been popular for a much shorter time than traditional fur trapper equipment. These devices can be used only when removing animals from under structures. To use this device, the perimeter of the structure must be well screened to prevent reentry. All entry points must be covered except for a single point. The One Way Door device is mounted over this remaining point and anchored tightly in place because animals will always try to bypass the door or go back through it. Once you are sure that the animal has left the building, the door is removed and the entrance is sealed.
It is best to mount the one way door in the primary entry point where the animal enters the building. If you mount the One Way Door in a location that the ground hog cannot reach or refuses to use, the ground hog will attempt to dig out or may die inside. This tool can only be used when the animal is active and not hibernating. Groundhogs are true hibernators and remain in their burrows for the winter. Mounting a one way door for a couple of days during hibernation will not evict an animal from its burrow. One Way Doors are species-specific (sized and designed for specific species).
Trapping Groundhogs with Cage Traps
Cage traps are the industry standard and eliminate many of the hazards that come along with fur trapping equipment. Cage traps give an opportunity to release any bycatch (unwanted animals) unharmed. This can be particularly important if you happen to catch the neighbor’s pet. (I have accidentally caught plenty of cats and I even caught a large beagle dog.)
You should also consider that catching an unwanted wild animal is also a possibility. In particular, skunks are a problem. The mesh that the trap is made of does nothing to protect you from skunk spray. As you approach the trap the skunk will start to tap its front feet as a warning. If it is doing this you need to slow down/back off. Approaching a trap with a skunk that you have accidentally caught can definitely cause the skunk to spray. Skunks can control their spray and it can come out as a spurt, spray, or even a mist. Be careful, even if the skunk does not spray you directly, the odor seems to seep into your clothes and skin just being in the area. Most people who suddenly find themselves with a skunk decide to call a professional.
Picking Bait
First off, I would like to say that in general I prefer to trap without bait. DO WHAT?! You say! You are probably scratching your head and wondering how I get the job done. Think about it. If you put out bait you attract whatever hungry animal that is passing by. You can set up for groundhogs and end up with an opossum, raccoon, or skunk depending on the bait. If there is no bait then there is nothing there to attract a non-target animal. Usually there is a particular animal that is causing problems and my customers expect results. If I trap, then I am interested in catching THE animal not just whatever animal is passing through. A baited trap can mean a lot of wasted time and effort.
“Posicatch” Set Up
Bait
If you decide to actually use bait, it is best to tailor your bait so that other non-target animals will not be interested. Apples will work fine, but can cause problem. Baits that are high in sugar will attract a wider spectrum of animals and cause problems. I use some professional baits, but also use green leafy bait which helps cut down on this problem. Doing this does not eliminate accidentally catching unwanted animals, but it helps. There will always be some curious animal that decides to check out your trap.
How to Deal with Groundhogs Under Buildings - Exclusion
If you have good groundhog habitat, then hauling a groundhog away won’t change that problem. Groundhogs tend to wander from their burrow much more than you might think. They are not so much lonely homebodies as they are real estate magnates with multiple properties that they visit through the year. If a “property” is empty another groundhog will show up soon enough. It may be a yearling looking for a “starter home” or a more mature groundhog. Either way, you will have yourself a new groundhog soon enough.
Cramming the Hole VS Exclusion
Excluding groundhogs from under buildings is the only long term solution to prevent severe property damage. Many times homeowners try to solve groundhog problems by plugging the groundhog’s hole with stone, bricks, or debris. This definitely does not work. Groundhogs are quite adept at burrowing around whatever obstacle they find. Groundhogs routinely run into obstacles when digging underground and understand how to deal with them. A brick tossed into the tunnel entrance is not a major challenge as long as there is soil around the brick that can be dug away or the brick itself can be dislodged. Earlier this year a groundhog pushed through an entire pile of brick that was stacked over a long-standing groundhog hole. Groundhogs may even have another entrance to the tunnel waiting and will switch to the new entrance once the first is plugged or covered with a trap.
Entrances under buildings must be thoroughly sealed with a heavy grade of screen wire. Lightweight wire mesh will also fail. I have seen groundhogs tear through the middle of mesh that was too light. Wire mesh must be dug into the ground in the correct manner or the groundhog will simply dig underneath the fence. Though it would not seem to be the case, removing groundhogs from your property can be very challenging. All these factors complicate groundhog work and can require the help of a professional.